Sunday, September 28, 2008

Community

At the moment I am working on a post about the adventures in celebrating Fiestas Patrias, Chile's Independence Day.  Prior to hosting this however, I feel that two key people should be introduced: Brian Smith and John Power.

Brian and John arrived in late July as part of the Holy Cross Congregation's Overseas Lay Missions program (the links to their blogs are on the right.)  John and Brian will spend the next 18 months in Santiago, Chile, working at Nuestra Senora de Andacollo, a k-12 school owned by the Congregation (and the school where I teach English every Wednesday to 1st and 2nd graders.)  

Brian Smith is from Massillon, Ohio and graduated from the University of Notre Dame last May.  Brian studied Romance Languages and Literature, which is an incredibly fancy name for an incredibly fancy major - he spent four years reading literature in both Spanish and French, writing papers in the languages accordingly.  Thus, he is fluent in both languages.  His Chilean Spanish was further developed when he spent a semester in Santiago, Chile during college.  I was quite impressed with Brian right off the bat; on the first day he had a conversation with Chilean Father Erwin and not only understood everything Father Erwin said, but could coherently respond to Father Erwin in response.  This is important because Father Erwin has always been known for being quite difficult to understand, both by Chileans and Americans alike.  

Having Brian around has been refreshing - not only is he incredibly perceptive, recognizing all the beauty in the small details of life, but he provides for interesting conversations as well as a dictionary whenever a word in Spanish is unknown. :-)

John Power comes from Fox Island, Washington and graduated from the University of Portland this past May after studying Political Science, History, and French.  Just like Brian, he is fluent in French, not only because of his studies, but because he spent a year in high school and a semester in college in Paris through a study abroad program.  (His good times in Paris often provide for entertaining stories!)  John's laid back demeanor and easy going personality can be accredited to his upbringing on the west coast.  A self-proclaimed "big picture" person, John's strengths not only lie in his ability to see the world for what it truly is, but in his work ethic and dedication to all things that he truly cares for, particularly family.   

Brian, John, and I, being the only volunteers for the Congregation of Holy Cross, spend a large part of our time together.  At first, it was understood that due to my almost 2-year experience in Chile, I would act as a facilitator to their experience, advising and answering questions when needed.  After all, I am in a very different place than they are: I have lived this life for sometime, am very comfortable, and am somewhat beginning to start my transition out of Chile.  They just arrived with fresh eyes to this very new and different experience.  Yet, very soon after meeting, the three of us knew that the relationship between us would not exist as it does on paper, but something more.  Judging by the fact that I pretty much live at their apartment now, I can confidently say our assumption was correct.

The other day we laughed when we realized that Brian and John are as different as night and day, and I oddly have qualities of both, providing a nice middle balance.  I thoroughly enjoy how different we are and how we each contribute a different characteristic to the group dynamic, yet we all seem to compliment each other nicely.  

It is often said that you do not miss something until its gone.  This was certainly true for me with living in a community; I have been living on my own without community since I became the last Holy Cross Associate way back in March and recently have become aware that sharing the experience of Chile,  with all its trials, tribulations, and successes, is something that I have grown to miss and have found once again in Brian and John.

In the next few weeks, I will be moving into John's and Brian's apartment.  We had to consider this option when we realized I was unofficially living there anyway, spending about 4 of the 7 nights of the week at their apartment.  In discussing this possibility, we realized the decision for me to move in with them officially is a good decision for all of us, with extra financial and mental bonuses for me (no more living with crazy old lady!)  So, I look forward to spending my remaining 5 months in Chile with them, growing from their presence in my life, hoping that I can enhance their lives as much as they do mine.

In order, from left to right: Brian Smith, me, John Power.  Photo taken during a visit to the coast of Chile, about an hour outside of Santiago.




Thursday, September 11, 2008

Welcome to Chile!

The other day, when speaking to one of my American friends here in Chile, my friend rightly expressed our shared frustration to fully explain to our family and friends what exactly is “Chile” and what Chilean culture or values are.

Past May, I attempted (with the help of a few Chile culture books) a “Welcome to Chile” packet full of small tips and notes about Chilean culture to assist the visiting U.S. students with their daily life and struggles in the Chilean culture. Remembering our conversation, I showed this document to my friend yesterday. After living here for a while, we both found these common every day occurrences for us fascinating, realizing that the “odd” things have now become “normal.” After commenting that she wanted to send this information on to her family, I realized that was not a bad idea…and not a bad blog post.

And so…I post an adapted version of the short section about Chilean culture here on my blog. It is certainly not all-inclusive, but I hope that it gives you a better idea of things I have experienced within the last (almost!) 2 years!

Greetings (Saludos): When saying hello or goodbye to someone, males and females have distinct roles. Women always give an air kiss on the right cheek (thus your head goes left), regardless of the gender of the opposite person. Men, when addressing other men, shake hands. Men, when addressing women, give the air kiss. Also, it is very common for good friends, regardless of gender (even between two males or two females) to hold hands or link arms when walking together. It was a bit weird for me at first, but when some of my students or friends did this to me, I recognized it as a sign of a great friendship!

Personal space: Chileans tend to not care about personal space as much as Americans do. Do not be surprised to find a person speaking directly in front of your face during conversation, or to find a person behind you in line breathing down your neck or inadvertently poking you in the back. The lack of personal space is also very evident in the subway during rush hour when each bus and subway car is packed to the max. This is a bit aggravating but there is nothing you can do to widen the space.

Time: Time exists in Chile, but far different than it does in the United States. More emphasis and value is placed on personal relationships and what is being done in the moment rather than what comes later. Thus, many Chileans do have a schedule, but it is not uncommon to be anywhere from 30 minutes-1 ½ hours late for an appointment, especially if they are in good conversation or visiting with someone. This was frustrating and hard to get used to…but now my US friends joke that I am a bit too “Chilean” now, having adapted the whole “late” thing!

Myths and Truths: One way in which Chileans express their pride to foreigners is to downplay their performance and insult themselves. Chileans ceaselessly complain that they are lazy, disorganized procrastinators. Even though there is some truth in what they say, they must get some credit because it is the best-performing economy in Latin America.

Am I “American”?: At twice a week I hear many Chileans say they do not understand, dislike, and/or are frustrated with the fact that United States citizens say they are the only “Americans”; Chileans (and most of Latin American) learn that North America, Central America, and South America are all one continent (the continent of America). Thus, Chileans say they are Americans too. The response to these comments is very crucial in one surviving the conversation. First, I have to always acknowlege the differences between Chile and the United States in learning how many continents there are, that I learned there are 7 instead of 5. Additionally, and most importantly, I have to kindly remind them that in English, it is grammatically correct to say United States of America citizens are Americans, just as Republic of Chile citizens are Chileans. It also helps to mention that I never say I am "American" in Spanish, because that is improper Spanish. I am "Estadounidense" (United States-ian) NOT "Americana."

Family: In Chile, family is the central and most important social unit. Children live with their family until well after college, sometimes until they are married, because the concept of living on one’s own is not as pervasive as it is in other cultures. If they do move out on their parents’ house, it is not uncommon for Chileans to find a new home or build a house just down the street from where their parents live. Regardless of where they live, it is a common practice for the entire family (including first and second cousins, as well as in-laws) to gather at least once every week for a big meal.

Comida es amor. “Food is love” as they say here in Chile. Many times, although we may have stated several times that we are full and cannot eat any more, Chileans continue to offer food, particularly if they care for you or have a relationship with you. It is somewhat rude to reject the food full out, especially if it is food you have not yet tried. General unspoken rules between the gringos are the following: If you are full, take the food graciously and eat a bit, leaving the rest. It is okay to leave food on your plate. Addtionally, we have to remember that lunch is the biggest meal in Chile and it often consists of several courses – taking your time is key. And, if we think we will continued to be offered more food after, we stop eating before we are full in order to be prepared for the pressure to eat more that will follow (easier said than done of course!)

No toilet paper????!!!!: One thing about using a public restroom (in anywhere but a really fancy place): you will have to supply your own toilet paper. For some reason, it is just not an automatic part of the restroom offering, as it is other places in the world. In case we do not have any, some places offer a fee for using the bathroom, from 100-250 pesos (20-50 US cents), which covers the cost of bathroom usage and a bit of toilet paper. Most of the time it is thin thin thin – just because they provide it does not mean it is the best quality!! Some people, such as us gringos, prefer to carry a small travel pack of kleenex in our bags/purses at all times...just in case.

Additional note on toilet paper: Some septic systems in Santiago (and most of Chile) cannot handle both human waste and toilet paper. Thus, it is custom that after using it, you dispose it in a small waste bin located at the side of the toilet. In nice areas of Santiago, where fancier septic systems are located, this is not something that one has to concern themselves with. What if we are not sure if we can dispose the toilet paper in the toilet? Just look – if there is a small trash can there, we know it is a sure sign that no, we cannot put it in the toilet and need to put it in the trash can. If we are really confused, we look for a sign – they usually post something for the slow people in the world...

Nanas: Working mothers in Chile are not faced with the same problems that they are in some developed countries. Because labor is relatively cheap, most upper, and even some middle and lower-class families, hire nanas (nannies) or empleadas that not only look after the children but also clean, cook, and do the laundry. The nana is the trusted partner in raising the children and her presence is a great source of relief, and many nanas live with the family rather than live in their own house.

Paloleando – “Dating.” Dating in Chile is a very serious undertaking. Yet, it is not uncommon for Chileans, especially men, to date casually or more than one person at a time. The world “palolo” is very appropriate in describing the dating culture of Chile – the word comes from the name of a bug that buzzes around people: Once a couple is officially a couple the relationships becomes very intense and possessive. Couples spend all of their free time together and if they see their friends, they do so as a couple. Coming from a different culture, some view this as very suffocating.

PDA is a definite part of the culture. Couples are very, very, very affectionate in public. (Much more than I have ever seen in my life – I feel the last sentence is an understatement!) Young couples hold hands, embrace, and kiss passionately regardless of where they are. For many of us foreigners, this is a bit uncomfortable and despite my large amount of time here, this still remains the case. Speaking from experience, giving them dirty looks (or hollaring "get a room!" in Spanish) will not cause them to change their behavior. The reason for this is because most young couples live at home, they have no private areas where they can be intimate and take advantage of whatever time they have outside the house together.

And so, that's it! I am hoping to post some recent photos I took of me and the orphanage kids up on here within the next few weeks or so. If I do not get around to it any time soon, the next post will definitely be about Fiestas Patrias, Chile's national holiday on September 18 (check out my post from last year here.) It is coming soon and we are all anxiously awaiting its arrival!!

Hope you are all well. ¡Saludos y abrazos!

Until next time,

M

Tuesday, September 02, 2008

The Perfect Escape

Bahía Inglesa’s white-shelled beaches, turquoise sea, clear waters, abundant sun and seafood make this beach town, 75 km west of Copiapó, bubble over with summer guests. The rest of the year it is a yawning retreat, and even though the water is equally good the prices are slashed and the beach is nearly as deserted as the surrounding Atacama Desert. Locally harvested scallops, oysters, and seaweed sweeten the culinary offerings.

At the beginning of August, my good friend Leah (who is also a volunteer in the south of Santiago with a program named Response-Ability) told me that she was aching to escape the cold winter weather and smog-filled Santiago. After all, she left the U.S. at the end of winter and came to Chile, only to find it just beginning here. The funny thing is, when she told me this, I found myself going a bit stir-crazy too. Almost six months had passed without a single day off and whenever I did have a day off, I found myself working on things I did not have time to do during the regular work day rather than relaxing (surprise, surprise, I know). The winter weather was also taking its toll on my insanity and each day I commented how much I hated the city and missed the countryside. Even more, my boss was driving me crazy and making my life more difficult than it had to be…thus, I was ready to escape too.

Reading the above passage in a Chile guide book, we couldn’t help get excited about this so called “paradise” in the north of Chile, thinking it as the perfect trip to escape. Despite our excitement, we are both working on a volunteer budget and attempting to live out a promise of “simple living;” thus, we had our reservations as to whether this dream could become a reality. After a little bit of investigation and finding round-trip plane tickets for a mere $138 dollars, we realized this was an opportunity that could not be passed up – tickets were bought and August 21 was put on the calendar as the scheduled departure date.

The decision to go on this trip has been placed on my list of “best decisions I have ever made.” It was everything we wanted it to be and much more. Flying to the north was simply incredible (my first despite many trips to the South). The flight provided many opportunities to see across the entire country of Chile at the same time, with Andes Mountains on the right and blue Pacific Ocean on the left. Landing in Copiapó, Leah and I were simply giggling with excitement: we were in the middle of the desert. Nothing around us for miles. We had escaped. :-)

Taking an airport transfer to local Bahía Inglesa (translated English Bay), we travelled through the desert, and again, could not contain the big smiles that appeared on our face. When we arrived in Bahía Inglesa, we were greeted by the turquoise sea, white beaches, and SUN. I honestly gasped out loud at amazement. I could not believe that we had arrived, only having been in grey cold Santiago a few hours prior.

Finding our hostel was very easy, as it sat directly on the beach. Although it seemed a bit odd at first, due to its futuristic dome shape, we found that its facilities were comfortable and it quickly became home with its staff becoming family. This remained throughout our four day stay.

And so, we did what we planned to do: nothing. We laid out on the beach and soaked up the sun. The book was right: off season means the town is virtually deserted. The beach was all ours, no one to share it with (well, except for one day when the Argentinean waiter we met the night before joined us, offering to share his mate.) Each day was capped off with an amazing seafood dinner at a local restaurant. One night was shrimp and scalloped lasagna (picture left). Another night was a broth soup with every type of seafood imaginable: shrimp, crab, scallops, oysters, squid, etc. Fantastic and of course, the meals were never complete without a shared bottle of Chilean wine.

Outside of the highlight of doing nothing while escaping ugly scenery and horrid bosses, two other events were the highlight of our trip. On the third day, Leah’s desire to go running in air free of pollution seemed like a good idea to me as well. And so, we woke up early and ran 6 kilometers to the nearest town of Caldera (photographic evidence of me reaching Caldera on the right). I am not exaggerating by saying that we ran through the desert. Guiding us was a small bike trail on the side of the road and outside of this, there was no evidence of civilization until we reached the next town. Although we would like to say we ran the entire time, the surrounding scenery and the experience alone caused us to stop a couple of times to take pictures. :-P

On the last day, preparing myself to return to reality, I went on a walk with my journal. An hour later I was hiking up a large hill (it is not uncommon for me to search out the highest and/or most scenic spots to do my journaling.) Upon reaching the peak of the hill/small mountain, I stared out upon the world in amazement. On my right, the open Pacific ocean. Straight ahead, the Atacama Desert. On my left, the Andes Mountains. And directly behind me, a turquoise sea, lined with a white beach. All I could do at that moment was praise God. My heart was open and it was a truly magical experience. After journaling a bit, Leah called me on my cell, a bit worried because I had been gone for some time. I told her that she needed to come and see for herself what was causing my delayed return. Her arrival and her reaction were the same as mine, and we shared a moment together in prayer. Additionally and now quite hilariously upon reflection, we also screamed out all of our frustration and stress, saying things like, “I hate my boss!” “I hate Santiago!” and many other things that will remain unmentioned here. :-) All in all, as we climbed down the hill, we realized it was the perfect end to the perfect escape.

Back in Santiago for about the past two weeks, things are good. I am working every day on the exchange program, doing my homework helper workshop in the evenings and visiting the orphanage kids each Sunday. Any extra time I have is spent studying for the GREs I plan to take sometime in November. It feels good to say that although life has returned to normal, with all its frustrations, the calmness that our trip provided still remains and fortunately, still has our tan. It was the perfect escape.